For The Love Of Lanvin

Warning: this post contains a huge amount of photos and gushing, proceed with caution.

The show opened with a typically 'Lanvin' look of glamour and sophistication but the fash-pack craved more. Oy, if only they knew what Monsieur Elbaz had in store. What became apparent after a few minutes was that Elbar was taking his 'woman' on a journey. He looked for something deeper which is evident in all the details and some raw edges - perfect imperfections. Flaws make us interesting and enhance the otherwise unatainable air of the clothes.

There show was divided into to parts, at least in my mind. First: day-glam and second: glam-siren. The detailing of the sequined umpsuits makes my eyes water with its sheer beauty and the beading looks too intricate to touch. Colours are simply amazing, spring-like without loosing that luxe richness. Final look was a marchallow-soft gown in array of pink hues.

Normally I'm not interested in jewels. I have no love for precious stones or metals however this has changed a few seasons back when I first witnessed how pearls mean more than Manhattan's Upper-East side. Once again Lanvin delivered piesces that may be more thought after than the frocks. I love the way the necklaces were piled on thus reducing their status, going even further, the models wore one earing only - painting a picture of a woman who is fabulously haphazard.

P.S. As we all know Karl Lagerfeld is no spring chicken, the man is 72 and has been on top of the fashion game for a long time. Many wondered who would take over as creative director of Chanel when Lagerfeld resigns and the name that had been mentioned is Alber Elbaz. It's hard to imagine anyone but Lagerfeld designing Chanel although it would be interesting to see how Elbaz works with tweed.

I'll Meet You At The Barn

Wow..this was certainly unexpected. Who knew that Karl Lagerfeld had a thing for barns? It's actually quite exciting, not him having a thing for barns, but as a concept which Lagerfeld executed amazingly par the shoes. Lily Allen perfomed! You may recall that her video for 'It's Not Fair' was also set in a barn-type of studio so perhaps her and Lagerfeld got together and decided it would oh-so-ironic to share the concept although it could be a fluke, you decide!
Ok, so the shoes. The first part of the collection featured milk-maid clog type of things which was so out of sync with the brand's image my eyes didn't know where to look. On the bright side, just about every look was pure Chanel but cuter. Yes, the word cute is exactly what is needed to describe it as it is paired back Chanel, one that has let it's hair down and rolled about in the hay.
The gowns were of a relaxed glamour that create effortless lines around the body with sheerness to express the naughtier attitude of the Chanel girl this season. The hemlines were flirtaciously thigh-skimming whilst the ivory colours kept it day-light friendly. As always we didn't see a whole lot of colour variation but the man tried with some red outfits aswell as some denim and a small bunch of floral prints -injected as youthful touches.
Another season and another hit (the shoes improved as the show went on) all thanks to Karl's ever evolving vision that doesn't compromise on heritage. The clothes seemed much more 'girl' than 'woman', arguably the main client of the brand, still he should not worry since most women want youthfully tastefull clothes.

Recycled Material

Let me open with this statement: I wasn't offended by what I saw. OK, now that I broke out the positive let me dwell on something else: bloody boho. Why is it that every single spring somebody just HAS to produce something boho-inspired...Tired, my eyes, so tired. Having seen Isabel Marants a/w show something convinced me to like the clothes and look forward to the fresh ideas on the runway. Instead we have Kate Moss's casual looks (which I love on Kate Moss) shows to us on the runway. There was a fur coat(!), raggedy looking striped skirt, neon pink dresses (!!!) and strange denimy-trousers. Some items are nice like the odd blazer or t-shirt dress and I am kind of loving the skinny scarves however everything else is just painfully mediocre.
Anyone with me?

Bloody Brilliant Burberry

So many words are needed to describe what I feel towards Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 10 as I watch the models sashay down the runway in their silver embelished trench-dresses and amazing draped skirts. I also laugh, just a little, at the way they manoeuvre the runway in gigantic heels. Since my words today are limited I simply want to declare my love by posting a video (the 1st part) so you too can experience the stylish beauty of the brand.

I May Have Flu But I Will Soldier Through Fashion Weeks

My darlings, I have fallen ill which made me fall behind on the fashion weeks and my posts. Believe me, I cried but there is nothing I can do. I haven't finished my London reviews and haven't even started on Milan...so the plan is: skip Milan, finish London, do Paris and come back to Milan at the end. A little silly but I think that's the best I can do. This man produced the fiercest shoulders at LFW and he goes by the name of Todd Lynn. The brand is not so long established so I always look forward to seeing his stuff and he didn't disappoint. Wearable trousers, great hues, draping detail and metal, pointy shoulders all made this a hit!

Twenty8Twelve was the British answer to Erin Wasson x RVCA and to be fair this is some strong competition. The looks were very summery which makes me wonder if they'll get any wear considering how much it rains during the summer but nevermind. I thought the styling was very well done and very errmmm....Sienna. Damn, I hoped to review Twenty8Twelve without mentioning her but yes, indeed, Sienna and Savannah Miller design this collection for those not in the know. All in all it was a lovely, commercial and cute effort with a funky little edge.

Luella is a brand that doesn't particularly impress but it doesn't disappoint either. The colours keep it youthful while the clothes themselves don't do much. A few nice prints here, some hightened waistlines there and a rip-off, sorry, inspiration taken from Balenciaga's armour dresses - make this seasons collection what it is. Maybe I'm nasty because of my chesty cough and inability to breathe through the nose but the brand just isn't evoloving but then again don't fix something if it ain't broke in the eyes of the designer.

Mr.Williamson, You're All Grown Up

I say Matthew Williamson and you say 'Boho!' You may need to alter your answer to the said question since boho he's no more. Everyone is shocked, believe me, what will Sienna Miller wear now? She'll probably continue wearing Williamson and in even bigger doses. Let me say it simply - it was awsome!
A more grown up, suave and cultured looks were shown on the catwalk not only helping with the evolution of the brand but also appealing to a wider demographic of women (not just happy-hippy types). Undeniably this was still Wiliamson in essence but a new angle was projected upon his work and the inclusion of tailoring was lovely to see as a contrast to the items seen in the previous seasons.

A structured frock with minimalist applique

I can decribe the outfit in one word: hot! On a more serious note, the tailored, high-waist short is very now and the what I assume is a knitwear top compliments it perfectly.

Print is a very Williamson element and he does it exceptionally well. It is suprising/refreshing to see one of his floral prints on a structured with subtly defined shoulders.

Embelishment? Check. Shift dress? Check. Inofensive colour? Check. Overall pretty look? Check again. But wait...what is that blazer doing and in a *gasp* black??? I'm guessing it's the transition from Boho Baron to Lord of Luxe.

Now I am simply running out of words but certainly not of appreciation towards the looks. Texture clashes, use of balck and appliqued sleeves. If someone let me near Mr.Williamson I'd hug him and say through the tears: 'I love you!'

Final dress of the show and what a way to end something so spectacular. Distorted floral print, somewhat of a signature, floor sweeping and very worthy of a red carpet.

LWF: Can I See Individuality?

London Fashion Week is the shit - both senses of the expression - of all other fashion weeks. Exactly here you can meet cutting edge with heritage brands taking the stage withing a few hours of each other. That's quite a great thing, no dicrimination, everyone gets a chance to shine (or essentially flop if you've read any of the London show reviews on style.com, seriously harsh). Last season this man brought you futuristic punk and this season it's all gone a little quiet. I'm not seeing innovation as such but I can't slate anything in particular too. The clothes were casual looking, something London almost aslways does, with a free-spirited feel. Splashes of patterns added interest while heirloom detail looked a tad out of place but none-the-less contributing to the over all looks...

Richard Nicoll

Yay! I am actually able to formulate an opinion about this collection! There was something about Louise Gray's clothes that made me smile. The looks were haphazard and pulled together, clashing yet complimenting and I didn't even mind the whacky hair and make up. To me the biggest appeal is the translation of DIY into sophisticated looks but then again I may be on my own when I say that this is reminiscent of any kind of DIY clothes. There's also something so Marc by Marc Jacobs about this but without the 'in-your-face' message unlike the Marc collection that apperently wanted to encourage girls to move away from black and studs in order to be individual ( Don't hold thy breath Marc!).

Anywho...Ultimately the collection is youthful and uninhibited by quotas and profit margins therefore retains it's playfull creativity.

Louise Gray